It's officially Passover, that special time of year to have "Da-Dayenu" stuck in your head for 8 days straight and to eat so much matzo that by the end of the week you never wanna see a matzo ball again. It's time to commemorate the "passing over" of the Jewish people from the slavery of Egypt to the promised land by attending a Seder or two, and/or by (and this is my own yearly tradition) watching your favourite movie adaptation of the Exodus story. (For the record, I'm team "Prince of Egypt", and all you team "Ten Commandments" people can bite my ass.)
But while all that that is certainly worth commemorating, it's not the only "passing over" that the Jewish people have experienced. And lately (thanks in large part to Sarah who enables me) I've been thinking a
lot about a different time period's "passing over".
Namely, when Eastern European Jews fled the pogroms and prejudice in the Pale of Settlement,
passed over the Atlantic Ocean, and settled in the United States. Many of them in the Lower East Side neighbourhood of New York City, as dramatised by another appropriate movie for this time of year, "American Tail." (I like animated movies, so sue me!)
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| Photo courtesy of the National Park Service |
With the current political "debate" surrounding immigration (in my opinion there should be no debate - human beings are not illegal, you fucks), this Passover is a perfect time to find connections with our immigrant past, and the Lower East Side is the perfect place to do that, whether or not you are Jewish. (This place was also home to Italian, Polish-Catholic, Irish, German, and Chinese immigrants. This post is focused on the Jewish experience in honour of Passover.)
Now unfortunately, the historic Lower East Side is changing fast nowadays. Gentrification is pushing out family businesses - There's a Whole Foods on Houston Street, and I heard recently of plans to completely
overhaul the Seward Park area, which I am completely against as it completely changes the historic character of the park, which is one of the few places left where one
can still imagine what life was like for these immigrants. And even putting gentrification aside, Chinatown is rapidly expanding, pushing into the area and covering up Hebrew signs with Chinese ones. (Though the two communities do
mostly live in harmony, thankfully.)
However, there are still quite a few remnants of the neighbourhood that the Eastern European Jews of the early 20th century knew, if one knows where to look. And they're all within walking distance of one another, so it's quite easy to form a walking tour of all of them! Of course, I won't tell you which order to visit all of these - I think it's much more fun to wander the streets and take in the sights until you stumble across them rather than try to hit every stop in order like some sort of grocery store checklist. I'm simply presenting them in alphabetical order.