My secret?
I... I love Staten Island.
Yes, yes, I know, NYC's "forgotten borough" is often ignored or ridiculed. Most New Yorkers' experience with it, I've found, is that they rode the ferry over once, then turned around and got right back on it and rode back to Manhattan, spending only a few minutes on Staten Island itself. I was one of those New Yorkers for awhile, myself. I get it, I do. Staten Island is a pain to get to, and you need to be comfortable with buses if you go there.
But it's so so worth it, you guys. Staten Island, I am publicly apologising for all the shit I once gave you, for you have shown me so many delightful hidden treasures. If you ever have a day to kill (and don't mind buses or can access a car for a day) I highly recommend all my New York friends check out at least one of these incredible little-visited gems...
My Favourite Places I've Been:
Historic Richmond Town is a "historical park and museum complex" - a wide open space with multiple historical buildings ranging from the late 1600s to the mid 1800s, often with historical volunteers showing off historical methods of cooking, woodworking, tinsmithing, etc. Colonial Williamsburg this ain't - this is meant to show how everyday, regular people lived and worked during the historical periods represented, not just politicians and landed gentry. It's fascinating. There really is nothing else like this in New York City. If you have the chance to go during a special event, take it - as it is a collection of historical buildings, you have your best chances of seeing more of them open to the public if you go during an event.
The one thing I will warn about is that if you do plan to go, eat before you go. While there is a cafe on-property, it wasn't open either time I was there, despite advertised hours. Better safe than sorry.
Have you ever had Sri Lankan food? I hadn't either before going to this incredible little hidden gem. Apparently, Staten Island actually has one of the highest Sri Lankan populations outside of Sri Lanka - who knew? So there are a few Sri Lankan restaurants, but as this is the only one I've tried, I'm recommending this one - which is good, because this one happens to be delicious. With a dining room that's decorated to the brim, on every possible surface, with southeast Asian traditional art, you're transported from the moment you step inside, even before any of the delicious food hits your tongue. If you come on Saturday or Sunday, there's also a lunch buffet (cash only) with a ton of options for both meat eaters and vegetarians. Sri Lankan food is a little bit like Indian food, a little bit like Thai food, and a little bit like something all it's own.
I fully admit I did not plan to go here. I was walking past it and was drawn in by the fact that they were playing an episode of the original "Star Trek" on their in-store TV. (I don't remember which episode.) As a self-proclaimed Trekkie and a lifelong fan of all things kitsch, I decided to go in and see if they had any vintage "Star Trek" comics from the 70s and 80s. They did, and I brought home 6, including two starring my beloved Saavik, for under $20. They have a very large selection of both new and used comics, so whatever your geekdom of choice, you can probably find something here. As a bonus, it's super close to where you get on/off the Staten Island Ferry!
Speaking of my lifelong kitsch obsession... I have been long obsessed with diners, even as more and more of them shutter and close in today's economy. So when I heard about this place, affectionately nicknamed "the Disco Diner", of course I had to go. The nickname wasn't lying - every surface imaginable is coated in chrome, and there's hot pink neon lighting all over the place. It's quite an effect, especially when paired with bottomless coffee, retro music, classic diner food, and waitresses with strong New York accents. If you share my diner obsession, do yourself a favour and make the trek out here. If you don't, well, they also serve booze.
This tiny hidden gem is a bit of a hike - I mean that quite literally, as it's a ten minute walk uphill from the nearest bus stop. I actually like the effect it creates, though - as if you really are happening upon a monastery in the Himalayas. The gallery space itself is only one small room, but it is filled to the brink with Tibetan art and ritual objects. When I went they were hosting a Tai Chi class in the gallery space. I kinda wish I'd joined in, but I would have been completely lost. The "Meditation garden" surrounding the museum is well worth the trek as well. When I went there were even deer roaming through! I didn't even know there were deer anywhere in NYC! (Though I used to see them all the time when I lived in California.) I stayed as still as possible, near a Buddhist statue and half hidden behind some prayer flags, and watched them for awhile. It was a uniquely serene experience.
This is part of the Snug Harbour Cultural Centre, a collection of gardens and small museums which are all lovely and worth visiting (I also went to the Staten Island Museum and the 9/11 Memorial Garden when there) but this is definitely my favourite part. You actually enter it through a bamboo tunnel so that when you emerge into this serene space with winding paths, it's a bit of an "Alice in Wonderland" effect. Bridges and paths frequently zigzag, providing visitors with ever-changing vantages to experience the garden. Apparently, Chinese philosophers also believed that zigzagging paths would throw off evil spirits. And at only $5 a visit - $4 with a student ID - why not check it out if you're in the area anyway? It's well worth it.
So as you can (hopefully) see, while it's not as publicised as Manhattan or as well-loved as Brooklyn or as infamous as the Bronx or as cool as Queens, there's still quite a bit of fun to be had in this "forgotten" (but hopefully not for long) borough of NYC.
There are still so many interesting-sounding places I'd like to check out in Staten Island, too - the Alice Austen House, Conference House, and the restaurant Enoteca Maria, to name just a few. I guess that means there must be another trip in my future... Who wants to come with?
-Nym
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